The Art of Eating

Getting hungry? Looking for some good restaurants in Bilbao? Believe me; you’ve come to the right place!

Basque people take food seriously. This is a place of gastronomic societies, internationally renowned top chefs and zillions of neighborhood restaurants.

One of the things you need to know is that in between 2 and 4 o’clock in the afternoon the streets are deserted and the stores are closed. People are eating! And they are enjoying a great cuisine. No “fast food” here.

Many work places close in the middle of the day and people go home to have lunch. Often the whole family gathers to have a three course meal - everyday of the week. Others are eating out, in a restaurant. Here everybody seems to be a master chef (besides me, that would be, but I am Swedish so I am excused)

Bilbainos take great pride in their cooking. Fresh fish straight from the Bay of Biscay, meats, game, fruits, vegetables, cheeses. The prime ingredients are excellent.

Me sipping on a “café con leche”. Life is good here in Bilbao…

A Tour to the Guggenheim museum Bilbao

When can we see the Guggenheim museum of Bilbao? When my friends from Sweden come for a visit, this is normally the first thing they ask. By now it has become quite a few trips. I must admit I enjoy the sightseeing as much as my guests.

If there is one thing this city is known for it is this stunning museum of contemporary art.

Weekends the paths surrounding the Guggenheim are normally full of people, tourists, joggers, bikers and locals enjoying the view. We Bilbao dwellers also love to pay a visit to our “Guggen”, even if it is only from the outside. The playground just beside is also a popular goal for families and Elliot, my son, loves the Puppy (the flower dog).

Stunning architecture
The Guggenheim museum of Bilbao was opened in 1997. It is located right in the heart of the city, just along the riverbank. The area used to be industrial ground. A bridge with heavy traffic, “La Salve”, actually cuts right through the building.

The museum was designed by the North American architect Frank Gehry. The style is post-modernistic. The forms are organic, not a square corner is to be found. The exterior part is covered with fine titanium panels, glass and sinous stone.

Exhibitions
The museum offers both a permanent collection and temporary exhibitions. It is focused on modern and contemporary art.

Revitalizing the local economy
Taking the decision to build the museum was a daring initiative. In the beginning of the 90s the local economy was plagued by a heavy recession. The museum became a part of a plan to revitalize the economy. At first the project was met with opposition. Spending massive public funding on a museum seemed like slight madness.

However, the Guggenheim museum Bilbao changed the city forever. Throughout the years it has brought millions of visitors. The Guggenheim has definitely turned Bilbao into an attractive must see for visitors from all over the world.

Food in the Basque region, you are in for a culinary treat

Green lentil stew, fresh fish “a la romana”, yoghurt. Mmm… delicious!
Food in the Basque region is tasty. The above menu is an example of what my kids eat a normal day in school. Aren’t they just so lucky...

So what is the typical Food in the Basque region?
First one has to make a distinction between the food in the Spanish and the French part of the Basque country. There are quite a few differences between the two “cuisines”. Since I live in Bilbao I will share with you my culinary experiences from here.

The Basque cuisine is known world wide; part of its secret is the high quality ingredients that are used.

Fish is the number one ingredient “per excellence”
The sea and the Basque people have been connected since the beginning of times. The nearness to the Bay of Biscay makes it easy to understand why fish is the star ingredient in some traditional dishes. Many of these require a long time to prepare. If you are in Bilbao I recommend you to visit a Basque restaurant and you get all the pleasure with no work.

Marmitako (tuna)
This dish with a funny name is made of white tuna, potatoes and fresh tomatoes. According to my friend Nagore this is a typical dish that Basque fishermen used to prepare when they went out whale hunting.

Bacalao al Pil-Pil (cod)
This is one of “the” most famous dishes here in Bilbao. It is prepared from dried, salted cod. The cod has to be desalted during a day and a half before using it (and the water changed ever 8 hours). It is prepared in a sauce made of garlic and olive oil.
It is supposed to be a true art to prepare it. Honestly, I do not like it too much, even though people here see it as a real delicatessen.

Bacalao a la Vizcaina (cod)
Another dish made from dried cod. It is prepared in a red sauce made of dried peppers, onion and Serrano ham. The sauce is simmered for about three hours.

Merluza a la Vasca (hake)
This is one of my favourites! Well worth a try. Main ingredients are hake, shrimps, green pea, asparagus and parsley.

Chipirones en su tinta (squid)
Small squids in ink sauce - this is my daughter’s absolute favourite! The dish is completely black (maybe that’s part of the reason that she enjoys this dish so much).
In the grocery stores you can actually buy frozen squid ink. Isn’t that an exotic ingredient!

Porrusalda (cod)
Creamy soup made of potato, leek, onion and cod. Has plenty of olive oil and garlic. It’s perfect to warm up on a cold, rainy day.

Angulas (baby eel)
This dish is literally worth gold! This delicatessen, called Angulas, is baby eels. Prepared with extra virgin olive oil and garlic they are served on very special occasions such as Christmas Eve. The price is prohibitive. The price for one kilo is about 800-900 Euros. Needless to say they are sold by the gram, not by kilo. I did eat it once in a friends house (luckily I was unaware about the price).

Beans and lentils are also basics
Before I came to Bilbao I didn’t know beans and lentils could be so delicious. Where I come from these little gems are slightly frowned upon and seen as boring health food (no offence, I love healthy food).

Here they are a part of the traditional cuisine. In every Basque restaurant and home you can find a great variety of bean and lentil stews. These dishes normally include fresh vegetables and different kinds of meat such as chorizo, bacon and sausage (there goes the healthy…).

To prepare these stews you either need a lot of time or a really potent steam cooker. My friend Maika is a real wizard at preparing these delicious stews. Some favourites in her kitchen are “Chick peas with cabbage” and “red beans from Tolosa with meat”.

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Mercado de la Ribera - fresh fish, great vegetables and lots of fun!

Make sure to put some time aside to see the indoor Market Place of Bilbao. El Mercado de la Ribera is the largest in Europe – more than 10.000 square meters of food market under one roof.

You can’t get any further than this from a super market. It’s like being taken into a time machine. If you want to experience what it felt like going to a market 100 years ago, come here! Everything is fresh. There are people everywhere. It’s noisy and for an organized Swede it seems chaotic – but it is great fun! What an experience.

On the lower ground you find the fish market. Wow! There is fish as far as the eye can see. Lobsters, shrimps, octopus, all you can ask for, and more. The smell is … fishy. Get ready to hold your breath and enjoy the variety.

I wouldn’t know how to prepare most of this, but the Basques are specialists at fish dishes. With giant knives the fish mongers chop the chosen fish in desired sizes.
Many Bilbainos do their shopping here, especially Saturday mornings when it is jam packed. The locals know that the fish is fresher and much cheaper than in the supermarket.

Go up to the next floor and you are up for another pleasant surprise
I didn’t realize vegetables could be so beautiful. It’s like a sea of colors - orange pumpkins, lettuce in all shade of greens, red onions… once again, all garden-fresh, brought to the city straight from the local farmers.

On the second floor you find the vegetables, meat, cheese and even escargots (a finer name for edible snails).

Don’t hesitate for ask for advice if you need cooking suggestions. The vendors or your fellow shoppers will be more than delighted to share their best cooking tips with you. People have time to talk here.

Escargots are a delicatessen that require a lot of work to prepare; they have to be cleaned thoroughly and cooked. But once on the plate they are delicious. Just be sure they don’t escape, have a close look at the photo and you might see that they are all alive and very alert.

How to get to the Marcado de la Ribera: The Market Place is situated in Casco Viejo (the old town) along the river. You can easily get here by tram. Get off at the tram stop “Mercado de la Ribera”.

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Pics from Bilbao and the Guggenhein

This is the majestic facade of the Guggenheim museum located just beside the river. The metal panels are made of titanium, the same material used to build airplanes.No wonder this museum has become like a magnet for tourists from all over the world.
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Getting around Bilbao - metro, bus, tram or car?

Want to see the city? The public transport system is well developed here. Bilbao metro is an excellent was to get around. The city buses and the trams are also a good alternative.

If you are staying in the city centre your best means of transportation is a good pair of walking shoes. Bilbao is a relatively small place and many of the main attractions are located within a good waking distance.

If you are planning to explore the Basque Country and surrounding villages renting a car might be a good alternative.

The Bilbao metro is clean and modern
If you want to get from one place to the next a bit faster my first choice would be the Bilbao metro.

The Metro has an easy Y-shaped design and getting lost is hardly an option even if you are in Bilbao for the first time. For the time being the metro has two lines, line 1 and line 2.
You can click here for an interactive metro map with all the stations:
http://www.metrobilbao.net/eng/home.jsp

The Bilbao metro was inaugurated in 1995. It has a total of 36 stations, 20 below-ground stations and 16 above-ground. New stops are added regularly. The latest additions are the Portugalete and Abatxolo stops on Line 2 that were opened the 20th of January 2007.


A metro in high-tech design
In order to design the metro an international competition was convoked. The winner was the British architect Sir Norman Foster, known for his pronounced high-tech style.

The main materials used are steel, glass and concrete. The metro entrances have a peculiar design and are fondly called “Fosteritos” by the locals.


Bilbao Metro - Some important information:
Metro opening hours are from 6:00 – 23:00 (there might be some variations so make sure to check to hours for yourself). There are automatic ticket machines that work with coins and bills in all metro stops. Most metro stops are equipped with elevators. Entrances are wide to facilitate access.

If you are staying in Bilbao for a few days I suggest you get a Creditrans. This ticket entitles you to discount fairs and is valid on the metro, local busses and the Artxanda Funicular Railway. The Creditrans can be bought at the metro stations, news paper stands and tobacco stores. You can choose between a 5, 10 or 15 € Creditrans ticket.



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The Bilbao Museum of Fine arts

Tourists come to Bilbao to see the famous Guggenheim museum. The design of Frank Gehry’s art museum is truly breathtaking.
However, there is another gem not to be forgotten - The Bilbao Museum of Fine arts.

This museum came into being long before the Guggenheim museum was even contemplated. It was created as early as 1908. Seemingly Bilbao has always been endowed with visionary decision makers – the museum was founded as a way to “modernize” the city more than a century ago.

Even though I live in Bilbao it took me quite a while to discover the “Museo de Bellas Artes”, but now I am an avid visitor. What can be better that an early Sunday visit to the art gallery? Just be sure not to sleep in, two a clock is closing time and people head home for a full three course meal.

The Bilbao Museum of fine arts is located right in the heart of Bilbao, besides the luscious park, “Parque Doña Casilda”. You can easily get here both by foot or by bus.
The museum collection includes more than 6000 art works, dating from 12th century religious art to present day modern artists.
Here you can see paintings, drawings and sculptures and other art objects of a wide variety. The museum displays the main schools and artists in western art. It also contains an interesting collection of Basque art.

These are some artistic cycles you can enjoy in the Museum of fine Arts Bilbao:

• Romanesque
  
• Renaissance
  
• Baroque
  
• Rococo and Classicism
  
• Impressionism
  
• Spanish art
  
• Basque artists from late 19th century until present day

I normally try to join a guided tour. Unfortunately they are normally all in Spanish. Ask at the museum reception and you will get more information.

Follow this link to find out more about the Museum of fine Arts Bilbao

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The Guggenheim Museum Bilbao

You can find a Guggenheim museum in New York, Venice, Berlin, Bilbao and even in Las Vegas. The museum in Bilbao Spain was added to this exclusive list in 1997.

I am lucky enough to live just 15 minutes walk from this extraordinary place. It’s a view you never get tired off, no matter how often you see it. In rain and shine the Guggenheim maintains its majesty.

The Guggenheim museum of Bilbao is the fruit of the collaboration between The Basque government (who provided the funding) and The Solomon R. Guggenheim Foundation (responsible for management and artworks).

A fish inspired this piece of avant-garde architecture
World renowned architect Frank O. Gehry is the creator of this daring building. When you visit the museum you are offered a portable audio guide. There Frank Gehry himself explaining how he as a boy used to watch a swimming fish kept in his house. This served as an inspiration later in life. The “fish-scale” titanium panels cover the major part of the exterior.

Contemporary art in an awe striking environment
Once you get inside the museum you realize that you can’t see it all in one go. To appreciate all the exhibitions you need plenty of time, luckily your entrance ticket is valid for one full day and you can re-enter after a break.

The heart of the museum is the atrium. It is not allowed to take photographs inside the museum so unfortunately you have to pay a visit in person to experience it fully. I can just tell you that it is awe striking!

Electronic installations and giant sculptures are exhibited in the atrium. Other exhibition halls are more traditional.

You can choose to see works in the permanent collection or enjoy one of the temporary exhibitions. Whatever you decide on you won’t be disappointed.

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Pintxo time in the Old Town of Bilbao

Casco Viejo, or the Old Town of Bilbao, is one of my absolute favourite neighbourhoods. These stone laden, narrow streets are a link to the history of Bilbao. This is the place to go for great shopping, museums and coffee shops.

Today however, it is Sunday and that means that everything is closed (in Spain they take religion seriously and here the 7th day is still reserved for rest). Well, everything is closed with ONE BIG EXCEPTION: all the fabulous bars are open. On Sundays I put on my best outfit and hit for the Casco Viejo together with most other Bilbao dwellers. Everybody is dressed up to their teeth, no jogging outfits to be seen.

I get to the “Plaza Nueva” the large, beautiful square in the heart of the old town. There are people everywhere, all with a drink in their hand. Children dressed up in cute little clothes, not suitable for playing, but great looking.

It is time to eat pintxos, the Basque name for the well known tapas. Pintxos are basically tine, winy little mini sandwiches. Some have goats cheese, others grilled mushrooms with garlic yet others crab salad. My favourite is garlic bread rubbed with fresh tomato and smoked ham. The variety is endless. Whichever you pick you are up for a great experience. The price normally ranges from 1 to 2 Euros each.

I normally grab an outdoor seat and spend the next hour or so just watching people and read the local newspaper. Just an advice, be sure to get up early. At about 14:00 people start heading home for lunch and the fun is over. The best time to arrive is at about 12:00.

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Winter in Bilbao

The winter in Bilbao can be cosy, full of gleaming Christmas lights and hot chestnut stands. It can also be cold and rainy. It’s all a matter of luck.

I come from Sweden, so from my point of view Bilbao is very hospitable also at this time of the year. My favourite winter months are December and January. Yes, it can be cold here, but you can still be outdoors and enjoy the walk. Some days even the sun shines and the sky is blue.

From the first days of December Bilbao puts on its glowing Christmas gown. The Mayor of the City supervises the official ceremony. A light switch is turned on, and the narrow, stone laden streets of Casco Viejo (the old quarters) are illuminated. It is magic, just like stepping into a fairy tale!

The bars offer home made bullion to warm up. At evening the hot chest nut stands open up. For €1, 20 you get 10 steaming hot roasted chestnuts wrapped up in a piece of newspaper.
Up until the 6th of January Bilbao is a state of continuous festivity and then the SALES start!

Don’t miss out on the fun. Here is some fun stuff I did this year.

The market of Santo Tomás (21st of december)
Be ready for some good cheer and lots of elbowing. Normally more that 100.000 people attend this traditional Christmas market, in just one single day. However, I do not recommend you to come here with kids. They will surely get lost and trying to move forward with a stroller is a total no no, I know, I tried it.

Local farmers gather to offer vegetables, cheese, fruit, cider and pastry. Even live birds are sold.

The stands are mainly located in “Plaza Nueva” and “El Arenal”. Do not miss out on the culinary highlight, “Talo con chorizo” (corn bread with spicy sausage). It is usually washed down with “Txakoli” (the local white whine) or cider.


Olentzero (24th of December)
This pipe-smoking man is something like the Basque equivalent of Santa Claus. The local legends tell that he is a coal monger that lives in the nearby mountains.

On the 24th of December the town hall arranges a procession with Olentzero and his entourage. It starts at 10 o’clock in the morning at the Plaza Funicular. My kids love it (and so do I). Dancing elves and twirling giants plays a part of the procession. Don’t miss out on the fun if you are here!

The procession of the Three Wise Men (5th of January)
The 5th of January is the day when the Three Wise Men, Los Reyes Magos, come to visit. This is an impressive procession with hundreds of participants.

It crosses the main street, Gran Vía, and arrives at the Town Hall as final stop. The streets are crowed. Young and old all gather to participate. This year 4 tons of candies were spread during the procession.